Dan Gould, of Central Massachusetts, is an avid snowmobiler and managing editor of On the Trails with S.A.M.
, the official publication of the Snowmobile Association of Massachusetts. In addition to trail-riding with his wife and two sons at home, he makes frequent visits to New Hampshire, Vermont, New York and Maine. As a photographer and writer, some of his most memorable snowmobile trips in the U.S. have been to Yellowstone National Park and the Grand Tetons of Montana. Superior riding conditions and the beautiful landscape in Canada have drawn him to New Brunswick as well as the Bas-Saint-Laurent and Gaspésie regions located in Québec maritime.
My trip in February 2010 was my first one to this part of Canada. In fact, the poor snow conditions in Massachusetts and New England in general that winter had me searching for a new destination. That’s when I decided to go north of the border.
Even though I had heard comments from friends and had seen photos online, I didn’t really know what to expect. But after an eight-hour drive, I was there. It’s not that far from home, but at the same time, you certainly have a sense of being in a different country. I guess it’s a mix of the language, food and traditions. By the way, I wasn’t alone... There was also snow, a lot of it!
One might consider the advantages of renting a snowmobile and all the necessary equipment on site. That’s what I did. I had the pleasure to be guided by Rimouski native Steve Gaudreau, the owner of Panda Aventures, the only rental shop in Québec to offer the four brands of sleds. (Rimouski is where Sydney Crosby from the Pittsburg Penguins and Vincent Lecavalier from Tampa Bay’s Lightning played their junior hockey.) Steve made a difference in my trip, with his experience and vast knowledge of the area. If this husky man manages to cross a lake without harm, then you know you’re OK!
I started in Pohénégamook in the Bas-Saint-Laurent region. I stayed at the four-season resort of Pohénégamook Santé Plein Air since it seemed to be a good place to start my one-week excursion.
Those who arrive late in the afternoon will quite often be greeted by a herd of deer that hoof down the mountain towards the lake to feed. Many guests will also enjoy relaxing in the outdoor Nordic spas, another way to experience winter up there.
The next morning I followed Steve as he drove across the middle of Lake Pohénégamook to reach the trail at the northern tip of the lake. From there on, we were riding on trails that would qualify as highways (well almost) in some parts of the world. These trails were amazingly well groomed each morning when we hit the road again. They were also well signed. Seemingly endless trails are the norm throughout the Québec maritime region and the reason why 300 miles are easily clicked on the odometer.
So, we headed north then east along the endless mountain ranges and plateaus, which at times overlook the magnificent St. Lawrence River.
We travelled through Rimouski and Rivière-du-Loup, stopping at scenic vistas along the way. There are numerous lodging and eating facilities along the trail, all catering to snowmobilers.
As for the food, well, let’s just say I’m still wondering how I made it back home after eating like I did. It was so goooood!
Our next overnight stop was at Domaine Valga, a hand-built log inn in Saint-Gabriel-de-Rimouski. This place is a dream made true by owner Éric Gagné and his family. They are a welcoming family—even their four-legged concierge wags his tail at you!
Above the inn, Éric has also set up 74 stations of aerial trails within his old-growth sugar maple forest. I didn’t try them (nobody calls me a fool), but those who love blood-rushing experiences will certainly enjoy. The trails are open in the winter. In case you haven’t figured it out, I’m afraid of heights and was more comfortable enjoying a salmon baked in maple syrup and dangerously delicious desserts, while entertaining a mix of conversation in French and English.
Along the way, we encountered local clubhouses where almost everybody stops to eat or socialize. I even tried a poutine. It’s a typical meal composed of french fries smothered in cheese and gravy. Usually, meals in the clubhouses are hot, tasty and inexpensive.
I will always remember those glimpses of coastal towns at dusk, awash in red and blue skies, and the unforgettable rock faces that suddenly pop up. One week was not enough to absorb the diversified natural decor. I will be back for more!
I could go on and on but I invite you to read the two articles I wrote after this trip:
1)
On the Trails with S.A.M.
2)
Worcester Living
Just remember this: Snowmobiling in Bas-Saint-Laurent is an experience of a lifetime!
Some of this testimonial appeared in Dan Gould’s articles in On the Trails with S.A.M.
and Worcester Living
.
Summer 