The Québec maritime Blog

Portraits of Passionate and Talented Chefs
  • Gourmande de nature

Portraits of Passionate and Talented Chefs

A good way to get to know a region is to taste the local cuisine. And there are lots of culinary delights to discover in the maritime regions of Québec! These four chefs have made it their mission to introduce their patrons to the flavours of their regions. We asked them a few questions to get to know them better.

Bas-Saint-Laurent

Name: Oliver Duplessy
Establishment: Pâtisseries & Gourmandises d’Olivier (Rimouski)
Training: With a pastry chef’s diploma in hand, Oliver worked at various prestigious Parisian establishments before opening his own pastry shop in the heart of the 15th arrondissement in Paris.

How would you describe your cooking style?

Fine pastries that combine the classic and the new while also showcasing local Québec ingredients, which I love. Always evolving, my sweet creations are ephemeral and change with the seasons. The central element of this distinctive approach is a harmonious balance of flavours.

Name two staple ingredients from your region that you like to use and tell us why.

I’ve discovered sea buckthorn, an ingredient I use in several of my creations, including sorbets, mousses and other desserts—the result is always an explosion of tangy flavour!

Obviously, maple syrup is a must. It can be used to enhance certain flavours without obscuring their true character.

What two value-added products from your region would you recommend?

Gin Citrus made by Distillerie du St. Laurent, which we use to soak our babas, and maple syrup from Domaine Acer, our official supplier of this noble nectar!

How does your region inspire you on a daily basis?

The proximity of the St. Lawrence, wide-open spaces that give us a feeling of freedom, and the kindness of the local people who put their trust in us—all of this helps to transform our work into a passion.

We have been welcomed by the whole community. Outside major urban centres, towns have the advantage of being on a human scale. Now it’s up to us to challenge ourselves to offer them our best work.

Îles de la Madeleine

Name: Johanne Vigneau
Establishment: Gourmande de Nature (L’Étang-du-Nord)
Training: Self-taught, with advanced training in Vancouver, Switzerland and France

How would you describe your cooking style?

I love fresh local ingredients. I love showcasing products from local growers, market gardeners, farmers, fishers and harvesters. All these food artisans work hard to provide us with the best of what’s available on our territory, and I think that cooking with these products is a way to show our support and love for this region. I’m also inspired by international cuisines, particularly Asian cuisine, which makes careful use of ingredients, an approach that speaks to me.

Name two staple ingredients from your region that you like to use and tell us why.

Scallops and crab are endless sources of inspiration in the kitchen! Scallops can be prepared and served in so many ways: raw, smoked, as a ceviche, seared, as a tartare… But the best scallop I ever tasted was underwater, while diving! As for crab, it marks the beginning of spring, or at least our hope that spring is on its way! Eaten fresh from the shell, it’s second to none, but once you’ve had your first taste of the season, it can also be featured in so many dishes!

What two value-added products from your region would you recommend?

I love rosehips, the fruit of wild roses. At Gourmande de Nature, my boutique of culinary finds, we make a rosehip butter that works well with many dishes, both savoury and sweet. It’s a perfect complement for Pied-de-Vent cheese, another one of my favourites. Luckily, the cheeses made by the Fromagerie du Pied-de-Vent cheese factory are sold throughout the province of Québec, which means that visitors can enjoy the taste of summer year-round!

How does your region inspire you on a daily basis?

The sea air, at Côte à L’Étang-du-Nord, has always inspired me. It takes me back to my childhood. My father was a fisherman; when he wasn’t out on his boat, he was working the land and salting fish, getting ready for winter. I learned from an early age that fish has a fresh sea smell, that the whole lobster is edible, and that salt cod is a special treat! I still love salt cod and do my best to introduce it to people who visit Gourmande de Nature.

Gaspésie

Name: Frédérick Boucher
Establishment: Estevan Lodge restaurant in the Reford Gardens (Grand Métis)
Training: Diploma in Professional Cooking and Sommelier Training from the Québec Tourism and Hospitality Institute (ITHQ)

How would you describe your cooking style?

A cuisine of feelings, raw and simple, a cuisine inspired by my travels and culinary experiences as well as the chefs I’ve met, but above all a seasonal cuisine that showcases local food producers and artisans.

Name two staple ingredients from your region that you like to use and tell us why.

I’m a seafood fanatic and especially love snow crab, which is a symbol of spring here. I’ve been crazy about this crustacean since I was little. Its delicate and sweet flesh makes it a choice ingredient.

I also have a sweet tooth, so maple syrup is an integral part of my cooking. Not only can this noble sweetener replace white sugar, but it can also take a dish to levels of complexity that white sugar will never reach.

What two value-added products from your region would you recommend?

Honey from Vieux Moulin in Sainte-Flavie is a must for me. Established in the region for several years, this product has subtle floral notes and can accompany cheeses as well as your favourite desserts.

I also like Gaspésie Sauvage products, which include dried and powdered mushrooms, wild spices, herbal teas and marine plants.

How does your region inspire you on a daily basis?

After several years spent abroad, it was the distinctive sea air of the St. Lawrence and all it represents that called me back, as well as the people. I think their passion for getting back to the land and their awareness of social issues and the realities faced by local food entrepreneurs really pushed me to come back to my birthplace and continue to inspire me and encourage me to challenge myself every day.

Côte-Nord

Name: Martin Brisson
Establishment: La Galouïne Inn and Terroir Boréal (Tadoussac)
Training: Self-taught, life experience

How would you describe your cooking style?

We specialize in grilled dishes, seafood and smoked products made in our smokehouse. Our contemporary cuisine showcases regional ingredients. Guests can choose between a table d’hôte or à la carte menu of seafood, pasta, pizza and grilled dishes. A bistro menu is also available on the patio, with high-quality draft beers, cocktails and iced tea made with northern plants.

Name two staple ingredients from your region that you like to use and tell us why.

Seafood: I love cooking lobster, which I stuff with northern shrimp and scallops and serve with a lobster bisque sauce.

Local berries: We make a blueberry syrup with northern spices that has a wild flavour that’s uniquely representative of our region. We use the syrup in salad dressings and cocktails as well as in desserts and on homemade waffles.

What two value-added products from your region would you recommend?

The spices and confits made by Terroir Boréal: These are homemade products that we developed and make here, in Côte-Nord. We particularly like the northern spices, which we use on meat, including game.

How does your region inspire you on a daily basis?

The boreal forests in Côte-Nord are what inspire me. We cook with northern berries and spices from the region, which are rich in antioxidants and polyphenols. We turn berries such as blueberries, lingonberries and haskap berries into syrups or fruit powders, which we then use to make desserts. The seasons also obviously inspire our menus. In the spring, we focus on fresh seafood and fish such as turbot, crab, cod and northern shrimp. In the fall, we showcase game meats with our Croutier Montagnais: a four-courses-in-one meal featuring duck leg and venison sausage.

Has reading these interviews whet your appetite? Don’t miss the opportunity to visit these chefs’ establishments during you next stay in our regions! To find out more about our regional cuisine, explore our flavour trails.

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