Home to vast landscapes, wild beaches and residents with hearts as wide as the St. Lawrence, Côte-Nord is one of the most magnificent places to visit in the province of Québec. As the miles unfold on your journey, you can look forward to making many discoveries, meeting extraordinary people and trying a variety of local flavours. So let’s hit the road together with plenty of room in our picnic basket, a great playlist, a sense of curiosity, a healthy appetite and time to enjoy it all.

An introduction to the region

Côte-Nord covers a territory of over 234,000 km² (90,000 sq. mi.), which is about the size of Romania or the United Kingdom or half the size of France. Many tourists never venture beyond Tadoussac, a charming town at the gateway to many more wonders. Of course, Tadoussac offers excellent dining, fun shows, unique accommodations and fascinating hikes… along with opportunities for whale watching, obviously! However, for those who can afford it (in terms of both time and mileage), we’re going to take you further east along the legendary Whale Route (Route 138), from Sept-Îles to Natashquan, in the Minganie area.

Sept-Îles: A city of marvels

With a population of about 25,000 people, Sept-Îles is the largest city in Côte-Nord. Bordered by the Gulf of St. Lawrence and overlooking the archipelago of seven islands that gives it its name (sept îles means “seven islands”), the city is known for its mineral wealth, deep-water port (one of the largest in Canada), fishing and seafood processing, tourism and the presence of First Nations communities.

Château Arnaud: Elegance and comfort by the sea

For our first night in Sept-Îles, we chose to stay at Château Arnaud, which offers some of the best views of the city. This establishment combines the charm of a major hotel with modern comforts. Several spacious rooms offer breathtaking views, and some even have a balcony or patio overlooking the pretty marina and immense Sept-Îles Bay.

Within walking distance of the hotel, Casse-Croûte du Pêcheur serves hearty meals inside a giant lobster trap. We recommend you try the lobster guédille (roll) or poutine. A memorable experience awaits you here!

We also really enjoyed the friendly atmosphere and dishes to share at the La Compagnie brewpub. Offering a large patio and board games, this establishment is a popular destination for locals and visiting tourists alike.

Purmer sea farm: A unique stay

The seven main islands that make up the Sept Îles Archipelago are Grande Basque, Petite Basque, Corossol, Grosse Boule, Petite Boule, Manowin and the De Quen Islets. Grosse Boule Island (which has a rather amusing name for Quebecers since grosse boule is slang for “large breast”) offers a unique and unforgettable experience: a stay at Purmer.

Located at the heart of the archipelago, Purmer is a sea farm that cultivates mussels, scallops and various species of edible seaweed. In recent years, this little corner of paradise has also welcomed nature lovers since it’s now much more than just a marine production site.

Purmer was originally the brainchild of Serge Gagnon, a commercial fisher who wanted to devote himself to mussel farming. In 2007, the business changed hands when Sandra Blais and her family, who share a passion for the sea, took over. Blais expanded production to include scallops and seaweed, while devising a unique concept that combines aquaculture with tourism. You can see her and this unique site in our video (in French only). Be forewarned: after watching our video, you may be tempted to escape to this island yourself!

Comfortable yurts, youth camps, vacation stays, fishing and outdoor activities complete the experience at Purmer, making this site a destination in its own right. Here, everything is designed to make you want to stay and enjoy yourself. During our visit, one guest was fishing for mackerel near the dock, children were paddleboarding while watching lobster scuttle across the sandy bottom of the St. Lawrence, and retired former colleagues were playing volleyball on the beach.

In the evening, you can order a lobster feast to enjoy in your own yurt. You can also savour Blais’s creative recipes made with seaweed she has lovingly harvested.

The only residents on the island, Purmer is only accessible by water. A 15-minute boat ride from the Sept-Îles marina (depending on weather conditions) is all it takes to reach this marine haven where time seems to stand still. If you’re lucky, as we were, you’ll see a whale or two during your boat trip! If all the yurts are already booked, you can also opt for an excursion package. Lasting three hours, this activity includes an introduction to sea farming and a seaweed tasting session.

The road to Havre-Saint-Pierre

From Sept-Îles, it’s just over 200 km (125 mi.) to Havre-Saint-Pierre along Route 138. Along the way, there are several places where you stop for a picnic, to stretch your legs and to soak up the wild beauty of this region. For example, the Manitou Falls, Rivière-au-Tonnerre and Longue-Pointe-de-Mingan are all places that offer beautiful views.

Havre-Saint-Pierre

It’s hard not to fall in love with Havre-Saint-Pierre! Living up to its name (havre means “haven” as well as “harbour”), this magical coastal town is a place where you’ll see the Acadian flag proudly flying and where the hospitality of the locals is legendary.

You’re sure to want to linger in the marina or along the beach… Havre-Saint-Pierre is also where you can take a boat to visit the Mingan Archipelago National Park Reserve, a true gem and must-see in the region. (You can also take a boat from Longue-Pointe-de-Mingan.)

Chez Julie: A restaurant worth discovering

In Havre-Saint-Pierre, Chez Julie is much more than just a restaurant: it’s an institution. Known as far away as Montréal and beyond, this restaurant will be recommended to you by anyone who knows the area. Since it opened in 1977, the facade and decor may have changed a little, but the establishment’s reputation has continued to be excellent.

We had the chance to meet the friendly owner, Théoharris Ganas, whom everyone warmly calls Théo. As you can see in our video (in French only), he took some time during his busy day to share the history of this restaurant, which reflects a combination of his family’s Greek origins and his vision.

On the menu, you’ll find the best seafood pizza ever (we’re still thinking about it!), a variety of gourmet combo plates, their famous cloudberry pie (made with berries typical of Côte-Nord that resembles small golden raspberries, with a very fragrant taste) and much, much more. Each dish is a tribute to the region, in its generosity and simplicity.

Chez Julie also has a gourmet shop, located by the large parking lot at the Havre-Saint-Pierre marina, as well as a gift shop called L’Îlot Souvenirs.

At the gourmet shop, you can treat yourself to a tasty cup of coffee and a cloudberry muffin as you wait to board the boat to the Mingan Islands. You’ll also find a wonderful selection of local gourmet products, including cloudberry jam, canned fish and seafood, various teas made with boreal herbs, spices and more—this is a real treasure trove for anyone who wants to continue their culinary journey at home or whip up a picnic worthy of the region’s finest restaurants!

By the way, if you’re travelling in vanlife mode or renting a house or cottage, you can purchase Chez Julie’s famous pizzas frozen, so you can enjoy them in the privacy of your own space.

Chalets Didoche: Modern tiny houses in nature

That evening, Anthony Cormier warmly welcomed us upon our arrival at Chalets Didoche, which offers five tiny houses on wheels in the style of modern caravans—all of which are comfortable and very well equipped. Located near the local campground and beach, they’re the perfect place to feel at home.

If you dream of staying in a Canadian cabin while sharing a communal kitchen and dining area in one of the most beautiful sites in the region, Cormier is also co-owner of Auberge de la Minganie. The friendly, communal-living vibe of this place means you’re likely to make new friends around the campfire!

Overnight on the Mingan Islands

It was too early in the season for us to spend the night on the Mingan Islands, but I’m already dreaming of returning to Havre-Saint-Pierre so we can do so. Because, to make the most of your visit to the Mingan Archipelago National Park Reserve, you have to spend at least one night on the islands!

Parks Canada offers a variety of lodging options to suit your preferences and desired level of comfort, from wilderness camping on six of the islands to various glamping options on Grande Island, Île du Havre and Quarry Island. You can also stay in a room in the lightkeeper’s or assistant lightkeeper’s houses on Île aux Perroquets. Whatever you choose, we recommend that you book your stay in advance to fully experience the wonders of this unique archipelago.

A picnic surrounded by wild beauty

Since we still had a long way to go before reaching Kegaska, our next meal was on the road. Côte-Nord has this magical quality: you only have to drive a few miles to stumble upon yet another little corner of paradise. My basket filled with treats we picked up at gourmet shops, general stores and fish markets became the centrepiece for an impromptu picnic. Our video (in French only) shows you that there are many heavenly places to stop for a picnic along the way!

I laid out my tablecloth facing the sea in one of those places where white sand and pink rocks meet at the shoreline. Wherever you choose to stop, keep your eyes on the horizon and you may spot a cruise ship, a few sailboats or even the Mingan Islands, home to mysterious rock formations shaped by centuries of erosion.

On the way, we also stopped in the village of Natashquan. The name sounds like a song for good reason: this is the home of famous Québec poet and singer-songwriter Gilles Vigneault. Everything here encourages you to slow down, including the wide beach, crisp air and Les Galets heritage site, a cluster of former fishermen’s sheds that seem straight out of a dream on their raised peninsula.

Further east, the drive will take you through what starts to look like Arctic tundra, and you’ll feel like you’re truly somewhere else. You’ll then arrive in Kegaska, which marks the end of Route 138. To truly complete the Whale Route, we would have had to travel aboard the Bella Desgagnés cargo-passenger ship along the Lower North Shore to the borders of Labrador, but unfortunately it was time for us to head home…

Côte-Nord: A trip that leaves a lasting impression

As I left the region, my suitcase was full of jars of cloudberries, packages of smoked fish, dried herbs and more, but my heart was also overflowing thanks to all the wonderful people we met during our trip: Sandra at Purmer, Théo at Chez Julie, my dad’s friend Anthony and our Innu fishing guide Samuel—all these locals who took the time to chat with us left their mark on me.

Côte-Nord is more than just a destination: it’s a place that stays with you long after your trip is over. Its landscapes linger in your memory, its flavours reappear in your recipes, and its inhabitants feel like old friends you hope to see again. Here, the sea is everywhere, the land provides sustenance, and the people are what connect everything together. A gourmet getaway in Côte-Nord is a bit like a successful meal: you leave feeling satisfied… but you already want to come back for more.

You can also watch our video (in French only) about accommodations in Côte-Nord! (Even if you can’t understand it, the video will give you an idea of what the places mentioned above look like!)